The Town Cellar
1089 Boston Post Road
Darien, CT

Square footage: 2,200

Years in operation: 2 years

By Sara Capozzi

Celebrating two years in business this November, The Town Cellar has carved out a niche for itself in downtown Darien, attracting customers from across Fairfield County with its unique selections and progressive mission.

The shop is owned by Lauren Hokin, whose family owned and operated Glen Liquors, a traditional package store located on the other side of Darien, which closed three years ago after 45 years in business. Hokin decided to take over the business and open her own shop with a focus on organic, biodynamic and sustainably produced wine, beer and spirits that supports small, family-owned producers.

“It was an opportunity that presented itself to rethink the whole business model,” she said of the transition. “We said to ourselves, ‘It’s a great opportunity to develop a concept that doesn’t exist in this market and something that’s really about curating very thoughtful, conscientious producers across the wine and spirits and beer category. To really showcase that and create a retail experience, not just a transactional walk-in-and-out shop, but a place where you can learn about the producers and what we carry and have a really thoughtful and informed conversation.’”

The Town Cellar team encourages an open dialogue with customers who are interested in learning more about the unique products that they carry. “We kind of hope you don’t recognize a lot of what we have on the shelf,” Hokin said. “That’s the fun of what we’re trying to do and to get people to expand their horizons and try different stuff.”

The store’s General Manager, Michelle DeWyngaert, brings their passion for and knowledge of natural wines to their current role at The Town Cellar, where they regularly educate customers about the importance of the sustainability movement in wine, along with each winery’s unique story. A trained sommelier, DeWyngaert has worked in the restaurant world and in retail at New York City’s Chambers Street Wines, another shop with a strong focus on natural wines.

“[The store’s mission is] really important to me,” DeWyngaert said. “As the buyer now, that’s the first question that I’m asking when people bring in new items for me to try is what is the farming like … We’ve also found that our community here is really on board with that and really excited to support that and they understand how important sustainability is for this industry and for all industries really.”

The Town Cellar carries natural wines from around the world, working with small import and distribution companies who are also committed to these values. “When you speak to those winegrowers, you’re talking about people who are deeply passionate about the land that they are representing through their wine,” DeWyngaert said.

“They take that deeply seriously, the responsibility of transmitting this piece of land to their wine and then subsequently to the world. And I think the wines that come out of that are so much more interesting and delicious and compelling than wines that are just sort of made in the cellar, for lack of a better word. If you’re not taking care of that place, you could basically just get grapes from everywhere.”

Shoppers will also find a collection of local, sustainably produced beer, spirits, seltzers and mixers, with fine glassware, cocktail-making tools, books and more available for purchase. The team also hosts regular tastings, events and classes in the shop’s tasting room and event space.

“We do a lot of programming to get the community engaged,” Hokin said. “We really want to get people in and trying new and different varietals and products that they might not otherwise reach for on the shelf … We really care about the individuals behind these products because we think that’s what makes them interesting and wonderful and different.”